Independent On Sunday
Bogotá se ha convertido en una de las ciudades más prósperas de América Latina. Con un clima fresco, al lado de montañas andinas es un lugar para no perderse.

City Slicker Bogota
Travel | Colombia's capital is shaking off its crime-ridden past. And, if you still crave election fever, it's just the place to go. Paul Bignell provides a guide

Why visit
Colombia's capital is buzzing right now because presidential elections are taking place on 30 May. Plus considerable new development is redefining the city. Indeed, Bogota is fast shaking off its crime-ridden image and becoming one of the most forward-thinking and prosperous cities in Latin America.

It benefits from a cool climate (by South American standards), sitting 2,600m above sea level and cradled by steep Andean peaks. Once you've acclimatised, there is much to see and do in this often ignored gateway city.

New areas such as the Macarena, an up-and-coming dining district, provide plenty of different forms of cuisine. But, best of all, are the restaurants that offer a modern take on traditional Colombian dishes, using regional ingredients. The nightlife's great, too. Hear the country's favourite music, Vallenato - a sound first based around the German accordion a century ago but since updated - pounding out of the many clubs in the centre and northern districts of the city.

For a quiet, more cultured stay, there are beautiful 17th- and 18th-century churches to see and a cultural centre named after the country's most famous literary son, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, which hosts a range of events.

The vast 1,700sq km metropolis suffers from congestion, but if you take a bike ride on a Sunday you can make the most of more than 100km of roads that are closed to cars. A new bus system, the TransMilenio, which is still in the process of being developed, links Bogota from north to south via its own road way, while the city's taxis also offer a very cheap way to get around.

Don't miss ...

... Bogota's birthplace. La Candelaria is a delightful, colourfully painted colonial barrio, with 300-year-old buildings - most now fully restored - which often run along steep cobbled streets. Visitors will find good local cafes, restaurants and museums. Make sure you stop in one of the many cafes to grab a hot cup of canelazo, which is usually made with sugar-cane alcohol and cinnamon.

... the vertigo-inducing views from Monserrate Peak. Bogota's proud symbol - a white church - sits 3,152m above sea level, perched on top of a grassy mountain on the city's east side. It is accessible by cable car or by foot, for those brave enough to take the 1,500-step hike). However, the views across the city are quite spectacular.

... the newly restored gold museum (banrep.gov.co/museo), which has more than 55,000 exhibits from pre-Hispanic Colombian cultures. It's the city's most famous museum.

... the Sunday flea market, Mercado de San Alejo. It's open between 9am and 5pm and provides a great chance to sift through non-touristy knick-knacks such as posters, books and ornaments. Coca tea will sustain you while you browse.

... Parque Simon Bolivar. Bogota's green heart is slightly larger than New York's Central Park and contains lakes, walkways, bike paths and stadiums, attracting almost a quarter of a million locals each weekend. Good for a break from the traffic-heavy streets.

.... the quaint historic town of Zipaquira, north of Bogota. It has underground cathedrals built in salt mines and is a popular getaway for locals wanting to escape the big city.

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